Day 18: Virgin Del Camino - Hospital De Orbigo

Approx 23.5km

Via VALVERDE DE LA VIRGIN, SAN MIGUAL DEL CAMINO, URBANIZACION SANTIAGO DE COMPESTELA, VILLADANGOS DEL PA'RAMO, SAN MARTIN DEL CAMINO.

Horrible, horrible morning! I had to be out of the Albergue by 7.30am, so it was still pitch black when I set out. There was a choice between 2 routes out of Virgin Del Camino, and I was knackered, so I chose the shorter route - 24km instead of 31km. Big mistake! The path was along the highway - 4.5 hours of walking (trudging?) along a fuel infused path. The route markers were almost non existant, and if there were arrows, they were pointing in all different directions. So many times I panicked that I was off the path, or going the wrong way. I had one particulary horrible moment of panic that I was walking back towards Leon. Talk about annoying, and as I was completely alone, a bit scary!

About 2 hours in I was bursting for the loo, starving and desperate for a coffee or three! Of course, nothing was open, and being beside a road I couldn't even hide behind a bush! I finally came across a road house in Urbanizacion, which isn't even a town, more like a truck stop. The bar was full of truck drivers and road workers who all started at me like I was a monster! But, it had a loo, coffee and a toastie, so it suited me just fine.

On the road again, it was 7km to San Martin. I got my passport stamped at a panaderia in Villadangos and then continued to San Martin along the dusty, polluted path. I had been walking like a little old lady, with blisters killing me and very achy legs. As I walked into a bar, I didn't see a step and landed very heavily on my bad ankle, so I was a bit worried that I wouldn't be able to continue on. Ahhhh, the life of a peregrino - stinky, sore and tired!

I had read that Hospital De Orbigo's main claim to fame is the Bridge of Paso Honroso - 20 arches, 204m long and one of the oldest bridges in Spain. I love bridges. Bridges make me happy, so I hoped that I wouldn't be let down by this one!

To my glee, it was everything that it was cracked up to be! It was massive and paved with cobblestones - loved it!! There was an area next to it which looked like a jousting area, like from 'A Knight's Tale'.

I loved Hospital De Orbigo. The Albergue reminded me of camping cabins, and there was a beautiful front courtyard which was cobbled and had a huge mural on one of the walls, spectacular. I was happy to see my French friends again - the 3 older men who sing. Oly and Ava were also there (an older French couple). Oly loves to call out my name - 'Yessica!'

Over the past few days, I had seen strange little houses built into hills along the side of the road. They have small little doors and the dome of the hill is the roof, with little chimneys poking out of the top of the hill. They reminded me of The Wind in the Willows, and Ratty and Mr Mole. I had to walk right past a few today, and they were all derelict and filled in with rocks. I spent a lot of time wondering who used to live in them and why they were built like that.

A little later in the evening I asked someone, who told me that they were houses before Christ. In more recent years they have been used as Bodegas, where people would meet to drink and maybe have a pre-dinner snack. Now, they are largely abandoned or used as wine cellars by wineries. So that ends that mystery!

I had a funny text message from Rosie Roberts today, asking me what song I was singing today. embarrassingly enough, I had been singing 'Waving my Dick in the Wind' by Ween when she sent it! I think that was because it was windy and I was waving my 'stick' in the wind!

In the evening I was in the grocery store buying some supplies, and the owner spoke some english, thank God! She was asking me if I was traveling alone, and when I told her I was she looked shocked and said 'Brave Girl'. I said maybe brave, or maybe stupid! It meant a lot for her to say that though. I guess I don't realsie how big this journey is sometimes, but it really is a big deal. I am walking over 700km across Spain, a country whose language I don't speak, and where I don't know anyone. I am doing it alone. I will spend 5 weeks without any creature comforts, not even a hair brush. I am filthy, sore and tired, and even though I have some bad days, I am really enjoying my time. But it really is an amazing journey and I will be very proud of myself to finish the whole Camino De Santiago!

The man running the Albergue tonight is young, and a bit strange. I spent a lot of time in the courtyard writing in my diary in the evening, and he kept standing next to me and staring at me as if he didn't like me, but then he wouldn't leave me alone! Maybe he has a thing for smelly, dirty girls with sunburn? He was trying to tell me that Australia was named after a dynesty of Spanish kings..hmmmm!