Approx 17km
Via VILLARES DE ORBIGO, SANTIBANEZ DE VALDEIGLESIA and SAN JUSTO DE LA VEGA.
I decided that today was going to be my first 'day off', because my energy levels have really dipped over the past couple of days, and the next few days are going to have some very steep inclines. So, to treat myself, I only walked 17km! I was lucky enough to get a late start from Hospital De Orbigo - they were more relaxed on leaving times than most other Albergues, so I had a 'sleep in' until 7.45am and treated myself to breakfast in a cafe before hitting the road at 9am.
There were two routes to choose from again today, and after yesterday's terrible choice, I chose the route as far away from the main road as possible!! It was a great decision, and I spent 3 hours walking through little villages and forests - so much calmer and nicer!
I was walking through one little town during morning Mass, and would you believe it - the sermon was piped through loudspeakers throughout the village! I stopped for a little while to listen before realising that I had absolutely no idea what was being said and decided to move on! As I left the village, I entered a forest and about a km or so in, there was a scarecrow dressed as a Pilgrim, standing along with a cross and other tributes.
I arrived in Astorga at about midday and the first thing I did was find a bar for a much desired cafe con leche, and it was soooo good! After my coffee, I was wandering around the town square looking for somewhere to stay and not looking wheere I was going, when I almost walked into a man on a bike. He was a very cheerful, eccentric man on a bike! Who was absolutely delighted to see me! "Ahhhhhh, Peregrino!". He gleefully pointed out Farmicia and Albergue for me with a HUGE grin on his face.
I checked into the Albergue and had a hot shower, which was so good, as it was very cold. Then I tucked myself into bed for a little Nana nap. I woke up a while later and was happy to see my 3 French singing friends once again! I got up and headed out to explore Astorga. Of course, the minute I stepped outside it began to rain and hail. I bought a brolly and continued on looking for somwhere to hide from the weather. I ended up in a museam/exhibition about the interior of the Cathedral, which is very special as it was created by a pupil of Michealangelo. The man running the exhibition spoke english and gave me some advice about what was worth checking out in Astorga.
Astorga is a part of the Maragateria region, and has some regional specialities that I indulged in - mantecadas, which are a lardy kind of cake and chocolate covered oranges (Astorga used to be the chocolate centre of Spain in the 18/19th Century). A bit of interesting history here: the people of Astorga and the 45 villages to the west and south are known as Maragatos. Their ethnic origins are unknown, but are perhaps Phoenician or Berbers ffrom the 9th C. They are a completely different race from the rest of Spain, and for centuries they were the muleteers of Spain, doing the job that is now done by 38tonne trucks. Amazing. The Ayuntamiento (Town Hall) has figures in the traditional Maragato dress, which chime the bell on the clock tower.
I took myself out for tea tonight, and I just cannot believe the value for money over here! I was alone, and I was given a whole bottle of red, all for me, haha! I couldn't understand the menu, so I just picked randomly, and for starters I had a salad - huge plate full of lettuce, tomato, tuna, ham and cheese with a tasty dressing. That would have done me......but then out came HALF a chicken, no joke! On top of that there was desert, plus half a loaf of bread. All for 7 Euro.
And no, I didn't finish my meal. But I did give the wine a good crack! Who could want more? A nice red, a huge feed, and a great dinner companion - Karouac!
As I was going to sleep I realised that apart from small talk to people in shops, I hadn't spoken to anyone all day, which is just how I wanted it. A very satisfying and relaxing day...which was needed before the horrors of the next few days.....stay tuned!
How do you like my hand tan?!
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